Day 10

Bahouddin Naqshband

The Memorial Complex of Khoja Bakhouddin Naqshbandi is one of the most important Muslim shrines. Every self-respecting Muslim knows and reveres this name. The great theologian of the XIV century, founder of the Sufi Order "Naqshbandia" was buried 12 km from Bukhara in his native village of Kasri Orifon. Some time ago there was the pagan temple of the site of current tomb of Naqshbandi.Naqshbandi was the spiritual teacher of Amir Temur and made hajj to Mekka 32 times. He appealed people to be modest and rejected the luxury. His philosophy was based on the principle: "Dil ba joru, dast ba kor" ("The heart - with the God, hands at work").

The main building of the complex is the khanqah. Before the frontal of the mosque there is the minaret and small madrassah. To the west from dahma, in separate courtyard there is the large necropolis, where Naqshbandi is buried. Graves of his mother and his teacher - Said Mir Kulol, are situated not far from his grave.

The Mausoleum of Saint Bakhouddin Naqshbandi is considered as the Central Asian Mekka. Believers from different muslim countries come here to ask for the fulfilment of wishes and healing.

The complex also includes the museum, which keeps the true information about Sufi and Sufism: Sufi wearing, books and other exposition

Northeast of Bukhara in the village of Kasri Orifon is one of Sufism's more important shrines (working hours 8am-7pm), the birthplace and the tomb of Khazreti Mohammed Bakhauddin (Baha-al-din, Uzbek: Bahovuddin) Nakhshbandi (1318-1389), the founder of the most influential of many ancient Sufi orders in Central Asia, and Bukhara's unofficial 'patron saint'.

Bakhauddin (The Decoration of Religion) was born a few kilometres from the present complex in the town of Kasri Orifon into a family of metalworkers, from where he took the name Nakhshbandi (Engraver of Metals). He came under the early influence of Abdul Khaliq Gijduvani and as a married man spent 12 years in the employ of Tamerlane's nephew Khalil Sultan after which, according to the Encyclopedia of Islam, he devoted himself to "the care of animals for seven years and road-mending for another seven". This last vocation is not quite as bizarre as it may sound, for Nakhshbandi espoused a life of hard work, self-reliance and modesty, encouraging all his pupils to learn a trade as he himself had done. His 11 principles of conduct were based on a retreat from authority, spiritual purity and a rejection of ostentation or ceremony, principles that were stretched to their limit by the Nakhshbandi brotherhood's early rejection of communism in the 1920s and subsequent tacit support for the basmachi revolt.

Entering the complex through the main, east entrance, you'll walk towards a 16th century khanaka covered by a huge dome, now a Juma (Friday) mosque. In front of it is a precariously leaning minaret. Two more mosques surround Bakhautdin's tomb in the courtyard to the left. The lovingly restored aivan here is one of the country's most beautiful.

The tomb itself is a simple 2m-high block, protected by a horse-mane talisman hanging from a post. Tradition says that it is auspicious to complete three anticlockwise circumambulations of the tomb. Back in the main courtyard you'll spot more locals walking anticlockwise around a petrified tree. Legend has it that this tree sprouted where Bakhautdin stuck his staff, upon returning from a pilgrimage to Mecca. He then added drops of holy water from Mecca to a nearby well. Faucets near the minaret continue to supply this well's water to pilgrims, who splash their faces with it and bring it home by the jugful for good luck.

North of the complex a long path leads to the tomb of Bakhautdin's mother, also a place of pilgrimage.

The shrine itself is steeped in superstition. Pilgrims circle and kiss and pray in front of Nakhshbandi's tombstone, tie rags, money and wishes around the tree said to have sprouted from his staff and cook offerings and sacrifices in the specially-built mass kitchens after these wishes have been granted. The site is also permeated with the holy Sufic number seven; in the seventh month the saint came into the world, in his seventh year he knew the Koran by heart and at the age of 70 he breathed his last. In the nearby museum a display of seven lambskins refers to the traditional seven tenge fee to the site and in Central Asian funerals male friends of the deceased jostle to carry the coffin for the expected seven steps.

The spiritual focus of any visit is the large mazaar encasing the black tombstone of the saint, traditionally known as the Stone of Desire, and the 20 graves of past pilgrims that include the Khans Abdul Aziz and Abdullah II. The holy courtyard is enclosed by the Abu'l Hakim Koshbegi Mosque (1720), now used as a women's mosque, and the Muzaffar Khan Mosque, built 150 years later. The architectural centre of the complex is the huge khanagha built in the same year as the tomb (1544) by the Uzbek chief Abdul Aziz Khan; a cool, cubed building equipped with 48 hujra cells and crowned by a huge 30-metre high dome.

In 1993, on the 675th anniversary of Nakhshbandi's birth, the complex was restored and revamped with Turkish and Pakistani money (including a personal donation of US$45,000 from ex-President Ozal of Turkey) and unveiled in a great show of international Muslim brotherhood. The event marked not only the reconnection of Uzbekistan with the international Muslim community, but also formalized the rebirth of official religion, a process that had started under perestroika and will continue to underscore the new Islamic orientation of an independent Central Asia. Further renovations took place in 2003 to celebrate the 685th anniversary of Nakhshbandi's birth.

Day 9

Museum of Imam Al - Bukhari 

The museum is located in a modern building, designed by architect Zoirsho Klichev Bukhara. The museum was opened in 2001 and its exposition devoted to the life and work of the brilliant researcher Hadith, luminary of theology of Islam - Imam Muhammad ibn Ismail al-Bukhari.
The main difficulty of the philosopher and theologian was his work "Al - Jami al-Sahih". In this book, which is considered holy in Islam after the Koran, contains wise sayings and sayings of the Prophet Muhammad. To create a book scientist studied more than 600 thousand hadith. In the Muslim world, the scientist known as "Amirul - Mu'minin fil-hadith", which translates as "The Sultan of the Faithful in the science of Hadith."

The memorial complex of Bukhari, the memorial complex of Imam al-Bukhari is an architectural monument, a shrine in Samarkand.  The cemetery in the village of Khartang, Chelak district, where Imam al-Bukhari is buried, has long been one of the most revered and revered shrines of the Muslim mind.  In the 16th century, a mausoleum was built on the grave of Imam al-Bukhari, a mosque was built next to it, and several plane trees were planted in the courtyard.  But the policy of atheism in Soviet times, because of which the place was abandoned.  To honor the memory of such great people as Imam al-Bukhari, who devoted their lives to the cause of faith and belief, science, education and religion after Uzbekistan gained independence.  special attention was paid to the improvement of places associated with their names.  According to the decree of the Cabinet of Ministers of the Republic of Uzbekistan dated April 29, 1997 "On the celebration of the 1225th anniversary of the birth of Imam al-Bukhari according to the Hijri lunar calendar" to the site of the mausoleum.  This memorial complex is dedicated to the President of the Republic of Uzbekistan Islam Karimov.  The complex was built in 1998 by the masters of Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, Tashkent, Andijan, Namangan, Kokand, Shakhrisabz.   It also provides for the study of hadith and other educational activities.  When drawing up the master plan of the complex Around the courtyard, buildings (mausoleums, mosques, administrative and other structures) built on the basis of traditional national architectural solutions (roofs, arches, domes, porches, etc.) are decorated with p.  In the center of the mausoleum is a sagan made of white transparent onyx stone.  From the door on the right side of the mausoleum, a staircase leads to the lower floor of the mausoleum - a hut.  The tomb of Imam al-Bukhari is made of marble, just below the sagan on the top floor.  There is a mosque on the left side of the courtyard.  The total area of   the mosque is 786 sq.m.  The total area of   the porch is 214 sq.m.  m. About 1500 people can pray on the terrace.  On the right side of the courtyard there is a building with a roof and a palace.  The Miyonsaray dome has the same shape and size as other domes.  The building has a library, staff room and other facilities.  The total area is 946 square meters.  m. Porch area 110 sq.m.  Unique manuscripts of the Quran in the library, various editions, editions of the works of Imam al-Bukhari and other books.  In the complex - in the back of the mausoleum there is a training center for the study of hadith - "Dorul hadio building. Abdukakhor Turdiev, Murodjon Aminov.

Day 8

 House-Museum of Fayzulla Khodjaev

Making a trip to Uzbekistan, to one of the most mysterious cities – Bukhara, do not neglect a chance to visit Fayzulla Khodjaev Museum.

House-Museum of Fayzulla Khodjaev, located in the old part of Bukhara, in Goziyon neighborhood, is the bright example of the architecture of the XIX century. Fayzulla Khodjaev Museum memorializes one of the eminent politicians of Uzbekistan, whose active work fell on the beginning of the XX century.

Fayzulla Khodjaev, is, undoubtedly, a key politician figure of Uzbek history of 1920-1930. His fantastic career and tragic final left many ambiguities, covered with discrepant myths of the XX century.

Fayzulla Khodjaev, a native of Bukhara, belonged to the richest people of Bukhara khanate. At the end of the XIX – beginning of the XX centuries there was a state of classical Asian monarchy headed by the amirs of Mangyt clan under the protectorate of the Russian Empire.

Fayzulla Khodjaev’s father was a merchant- millionaire, who made a fortune on the export of karakul. When Fayzulla was 11 he together with his father went to Russia and until 1911 had been studied in Moscow. In 1912 the father died, and Fayzulla got a part of father’s property, including the house in old Bukhara neighborhood. It was quite clear, that faith and convictions of young Fayzulla reflected the interests of national capital, competing with the largest capitalist Khanate – Amir of Bukhara. Hence there was an aspiration to reforms and way to power by means of revolution. Fayzulla Khodjaev actively opposed the anti-people reign of the last Bukhara Amir.

Fayzulla Khodjaev engaged in governing of Bukhara region, but during mass repressions of 1937-1938 he was executed.

In Uzbekistan people revere Fayzulla Khodjaev's memory, and that is why Fayzulla Khodjaev Memorial Museum was established.

This historical building has the excellent condition, and is the outstanding place of interest itself. House-Museum of Fayzulla Khodjaev has two yards: the outside yard – “men's” and inside one - “woman's”. All walls of the building and interiors of the dwelling are richly decorated with paintings on wood and alabaster, cutting on ganch and plaster. The aggregate house space is three hectares

Today in Fayzulla Khodjaev Museum along with the memorial exposition there are two thematic  exhibitions. The first one shows the mode of rich Uzbek merchants and includes the original subjects of luxury, furniture and musical instruments, silk and velvety oriental robes. The second exhibition demonstrates the wide collection of dishes, where the items of Kuznetcov and Gardner factories, copper and silver dishes of Bukhara masters are presented.

The exposition of Fayzulla Khodjaev Museum tells about the way of life of Uzbekistan of different times. The greater part of museum pieces includes ancient original products.

It is interesting, under the House-Museum of Fayzulla Khodjaev there is a system of underground tunnels, which purpose is still unknown. May be they were constructed by Fayzulla Khodjaev, in case of danger it was possible to hide from Khan’s anger. But, perhaps, the tunnels have more ancient history, and they had been here before the house building.

Today was also one of my best days.  The first visit to Fayzull Khodjaev's house was very interesting and I learned a lot about him.  Thank you very much to our guides today Sevil, Nilyufar and Feruza, I was very pleased to learn what was new.